Useful Information

Acclimatisation

To enable all expedition members to acclimatise well and so maximise their chance of success, our expedition programmes are prepared with enough time for acclimatization. Adaptation to the altitude takes time and there can be no short-cuts, even if supplementary oxygen is used in the final stages. The atmospheric pressure at base camp is half that at sea level. A thorough programme of acclimatisation is built into the itinerary, which consists of regulated height gains, followed by descent and rest. Before the final ascent to the summit.

Experience Required

This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership and one climbing Sherpa per team member - this will maximise your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.

All team members need to be in excellent physical condition if they are to have a realistic chance of staying strong right up to the summit. Climbing an 8,000m peak is a tough test of endurance; both physical and psychological, so you need to make sure that you are prepared for the effort required to sustain the duration of the expedition.

All members are asked to bear in mind that they are part of a team. As such, individuals are encouraged to observe the customary expedition conventions of team work and mutual support.

Our experienced guides and Sherpas will fix ropes, stock camps and provide leadership and support for the climb. This enables you to carry lighter loads so you can save your strength for the summit bid.

Himalaya Expeditions’ equipment, service, and support are top-notch so you will have an outstanding chance at summiting the highest mountain on the planet.

Our Guiding and Support Staff

All Himalaya Expeditions’ guides are trained professional who not only have successfully guided Mt. Everest, but also have extensive past high-altitude guiding experience that will increase your chances of success.

Our Sherpa Team is one of the best high-altitude climbing support teams on the mountain. Our staff have worked with us for many years to ensure quality and dependable performance.

Environmental Commitment and Social Practices

Himalaya Expeditions not only strives to offer the highest standard of service, but also to be the most socially and environmentally responsible adventure travel company in Nepal. To further our commitment, Himalaya Expeditions has joined forces with the International Porter Protest Group, which has developed guidelines for the proper treatment of porters including making sure porters have adequate gear and equipment, proper shelter arrangements, proper food, cooking equipment and water, proper medical care for sick or injured porters, insurance where available, acceptable weight limits on loads, and fair wages. The International Porter Protest Group also educates the tourist population about acceptable standards of porter treatment, and encourages the reporting of abuse or mistreatment. Himalaya Expeditions is the first pro-active company in support of the Porter Protection Project in the Khumbu region.

Although there are many interpretations of “ecotourism,” Himalaya Expeditions believes that everyone benefits by choosing a company that is respectful of the environment and the local cultures. At Himalaya Expeditions, we practiced ecotourism long before it became a buzzword and we have a broad understanding of the issues. We are always involved in training, conservation, and social development programs that ensure that the net impact of our company in Nepal is positive. We have been accredited by UIAA as Environment friend company.

Following items can be hired on a per day basis or bought in Kathmandu

Plastic Boots.
Crampons.
Ice Axe.
Harness.
Karabiner
Gaiter ( It is better to buy your own as it can worn out sometimes depending upon the snow and weather condition)
Fixed Rope.
Main Rope.
Jumar - 1 pc.
Snow Bar
helmet.
Ice screw
Propane and butane gas with burner
Aerosol
Oxygen with mask and regulator

Equipment checklist

Down jacket
Strong, comfortable walking shoes for the trek
Thermal undergarments like long johns, underwear, vest
Sunglasses
Warm clothes
Trekking boots (only for treks)
Climbing boots including Koflasch
Heavy socks
Balaclava/ warm cap/ hat
Scarf/ mask
Walking sticks/ ski poles (only for treks)
Windbreakers/ jacket
Climbing equipment like karabiners, jumar, harness, climbing ropes (both fixed rope and main rope), snow bar, rock pitons, ice screws, snow shovel, crampons, helmet, gaiter
Flashlight
Rain gear/ umbrella
Sunscreen/ lip balm
Down sleeping bag
Water bottle
Moisturizing lotion
Toilet paper
A knife with a can opener
High altitude VE 25 tents
Oxygen with regulator and mask
High altitude fuel like propane/ butane gas, burners, aerosol
High altitude food

Mountain Cuisine

The menu for our climb is specially prepared to provide a balanced diet of fresh fruit, vegetables, plenty of protein and carbohydrates. We choose food items that are easiest to digest at high-altitude. Our cooks undergo extensive culinary training, with many having previously worked as chefs in local restaurants. The cooks are particularly vigilant in their hygiene practices since contracting stomach bugs is common for visitors to the developing world.

Dinners typically include a main course of pastas and rice dishes served with vegetable, soup and salad. Lentils, beans or chicken are provided with dinner for a protein source. Lunches at base camp consist of a hot meal similar to our dinner menu. Breakfast is your choice: granola, oatmeal, toast, eggs, and sometimes pancakes or French toast. Coffee, tea, hot drinks and snacks are readily available throughout the day.

Since it is difficult to eat at the higher camps, we offer a wide variety of tasty food. We do NOT serve your typical freeze-dried packaged meal, but delicious pre-cooked meals or pastas and rice dinners. At camp II we have a mess tent and a dedicated cook who prepares dishes similar to those had at base camp. In addition, there are plenty of teas, hot drinks, soups, and salty and sweet snacks to munch on including European sausages and cheeses.

Equipment

All mountaineering equipment, including ropes, fixing gear, tents, stoves and fuel are available in Kathmandu. Climbers need to provide their own personal equipment, including:

Ice axe. Crampons. Five season sleeping bag. Harness. Ascender. 3 x tape slings. 4 x screwgate karabiners. Descender/abseil device. Prussik loops. Top of the range plastic mountaineering boots. Down suit or duvet/salopette combination. Neoprene overboots.

We can provide assistance with obtaining equipment not normally stocked by retail outlets. Some items of equipment are available for hire from us but, for this expedition, we strongly recommend that you purchase your own personal equipment and test it before departure.

Insurance

Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. A choice of either ‘Expedition only’ insurance and ‘Annual’ insurance is available for most trips. Expedition team can do their insurance directly also.

Additional Information

If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:
977-1-5544999/5539900 or fax us at 977-1-5526575 E-mail: Climb@HimalayaExpeditions.com

When to visit

The best period for the expedition is during spring (Late March to early May) and autumn (Late September to early November). During these periods the sky is clear, the passes are free of snow and the views are excellent. Days are quite pleasant and warm but nights could be chilly with temperature dropping below freezing point. Furthermore there is not much snow and the days are clearer and less windy making it appropriate for climbing.

Medication

First aid kit with medication for altitude sickness, nausea, dehydration, pain killers, medication for dysentery, diarrhea, bandages, water purifier, antiseptic creams, throat lozenges, eye drops, antibiotics, nasal sprays, pain relievers in tubes or spray cans. There is neither smallpox nor malaria in Nepal. You do not need the cholera vaccine. However it is best to check if you have had inoculations against typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria and Gamma Globulin against Hepatitis A.

Medical Kit

Though we provide a comprehensive medical kit it is better if you carry a simple but adequate medical kit without taking much space in your baggage. The following is recommended as tried and tested list of items.

Asprin or Panadol - for pain or fever.
Antihistamine - useful as a decongestant for colds, allergies, to ease the itch from insect bites and stings or to help prevent motion sickness
Antibiotics-useful if you are traveling well off the beaten track but they must be prescribed
Kaolin preparation (Pepto-Bismol), Imodium or Lomotil - for stomach upsets and to stop diarrhea and dehydration
Rehydration mixture - for treatment of severe diarrhea and dehydration
Antiseptic, Mercurochrome and Antibiotic powder or similar ‘dry’ spray-for cuts and grazes
Calamine lotion-to ease irritation from bites and stings
Bandages and Band-Aids- for minor injuries and wounds Scissors, Tweezers and a Thermometer
Insect repellent, sun block, sun tan lotion, lip balm
Throat Lozenges (Strepsils)
Moleskin
Sulamyd 10% eye drops.
Acetaminophen (paracetamol)
Antacid tablets

Prevention the Best Medicine

Care in what you eat and drink is the most important health rule. The number one rule is not to consume water including ice. Reputable brands of bottled water or soft drinks are generally fine. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if water may have been added. Milk should be treated with care as it is not often pasteurized. Boiled milk is fine if it is kept hygienically and yoghurt is usually good. Tea or coffee should also be OK since the water would have been boiled. Salads and fruit should be washed with purified water or peeled whenever possible. Ice cream is usually OK if it is a reputable brand name, but avoid ice cream that has been melted and refrozen. Thoroughly cooked food is the safest bet but not if it has been left to cool. Stomach upsets are the most likely travel health hazard but the majority of these upsets are relatively minor. Wash your hands frequently as it’s quite easy to contaminate your own food. You should clean your teeth with purified water rather than straight from the tap. Avoid climatic extremes. Keep out of the sun when it is hot, dress warmly when it is cold. Avoid potential diseases by dressing sensibly. You can get worm infections through bare feet. Try to avoid insect bites by covering bare skin when insects are around, by screening windows or by using insect repellents.

Medical Facilities

Pharmacy shops are widely available in most towns and are usually associated with doctors’ clinics very nearby. Prescription is not a requirement for purchase of harmless drugs in Nepal.

Hospitals

The government-operated Bir Hospital is centrally located. The best bet in the Kathmandu Valley is the Patan Hospital, which is partially staffed by Western missionaries and is near the Lagankhel Bus Park of Patan. The TU Teaching Hospital located in Maharajgunj is reasonably well equipped.

Private Clinics

The CIWEC Clinic (Tel: 4424 111) in Lainchaur opposite to British Embassy is used by many foreign residents of Kathmandu. It has been operating since 1982 and has developed an international reputation for research into travelers’ medical problems. It’s open from 9 am to 1 pm and 2 to 4 pm and is staffed by Westerners.

The Nepal International Clinic (Tel: 4412842) is near Jai Nepal Cinema, close to Durbar Marg. It also has an excellent reputation and is a bit cheaper than the CIWEC clinic. It is open from 9 am to 1 pm and 2-5 pm. Consultation fees costs around US$ 23. In addition, there are many government hospitals, private clinics and Nursing Homes in Kathmandu and major towns of Nepal.

The Himalayan Rescue Association runs two Rescue Centres at Pheriche and Manang for the benefit of trekkers and mountaineers.

Ambulances

Ambulance (Paropakar), Bhimsenthan, Kathmandu, Tel: 4211959.
Ambulance (Red Cross), Bhrikuti Mandap, Kathmandu. Tel: 4228094.
Bhaktapur Hospital, Doodh Pati, Bhaktapur, Tel: 6610676, 6610798.
Bir Hospital, Tundikhel, Ratna Park, Kathmandu, Tel: 4221119, 4221988,
(Emergency) 423807.
Birendra Police Hospital, Maharajgunj, Kathmandu, Tel: 4412430, 4412530.
Birendra Hospital (Army), Chhauni, Kathmandu, Tel: 4271940, 4271941.
Kanti Children’s Hospital, Maharajgunj, Tel: 4414798, 4413398,4411550.
Patan Hospital, Lagankhel, Tel: 5521048, 5522266, 5521034.
T.U. Teaching Hospital, Maharajgunj, Tel: 4412303, 4412808,4412505, 4412404.

Visa formalities

A valid passport is required for expedition in Nepal. The Nepalese visa can be obtained at the port of entry upon arrival. Ask multiple visa costs US$ 50 and is valid for 60 days. A single entry visa costs US$ 30 and is valid for the same number of days. Please do not forget to carry four passport size photos with you for the trip.

Money matters

Nepalese rupee is the standard currency in Nepal. As of now the exchange for 1 US$ = 76 Rupees, which is subject to change. All banks and business establishment with foreign exchange transaction authority accept traveler’s cheque and foreign currency. All major credit cards are also accepted in Kathmandu. However all banks charge a minimum commission for all credit card transaction.

Nepali Rupees denominations bills of Rs. 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 25, 50, 100, 500 & 1000 are available. 100 paisa makes a rupee like dollars and cents. Coins are very seldom used. On the trek try to carry bills of smaller denominations.

Photography

The sunlight is very bright during the daytime due to the thin air so it would be best to seek the advice from the stores before you purchase your films. Not all of the monasteries and places of interest are open for filming. Some places levy a small amount for every picture taken while in some places it is strictly prohibited so it is advisable to seek the advice of your guide before you take a photo.

Time Zones

Nepal is 5 hours 45 minutes ahead of GMT.

Accommodation

Accommodation in Kathmandu will be in Five Star to budget standard hotel as per your budget, usually in Thamel, a tourist hub. All rooms have attached bathrooms with hot and cold showers. Accommodation in Kathmandu is normally on twin sharing bed and breakfast basis.

Eating out

Kathmandu offers various dining experiences. There is everything to suit your palate and pocket. Restaurants in the capital serve Thai, Chinese, Korean, Continental, Italian, Nepalese, French, Mexican and Indian cuisine to the local, expatriates and the tourists. Eateries in Kathmandu vary from the simple roadside eatery to the five star outlets.

Transportation

Comfortable cars, jeeps or tourist coaches will be provided for all transportation depending on the size of the group.

Group size

The size of the group could vary from 4 - 12 people. The smallest number of people in a group is 4 persons and the largest could go up to 12 persons.

Altitude Sickness

Sometimes travelers face health hazards mainly due to the high altitude. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a frequent problem in the Himalayan region. It can affect a traveler is various ways that have little to do with age, sex or physical fitness. Acclimatization to altitude above 3000 m takes time to adjust. The body undergoes a number of physiological changes, some of which are increased pulse and respiratory rate. Others appear slowly over a period of weeks like the change in acid base balance and production of extra red blood cells. These changes and the effect of intense sunlight, strenuous walks and dehydration may cause some mild or vague symptoms such as loss of appetite, fatigue, headache, nausea, dizziness, palpitations, sleeplessness, breathlessness.

The best treatment is prevention. Do not exert yourself or walk too fast. Drink plenty of liquid, eat well and watch for warning signs. Keep physical activity to the minimum. Take regular doses of diamox as directed by your physician. If AMS symptoms are seen do not hesitate to interact with your guide or escort. If you have a history of respiratory and heart problem please consult your doctor before embarking on any one of our trips.

Risk and Liability

Himalaya Expeditions means safety, reliability and the professional personnel to ensure your convenience at all times. However sometimes unforeseen circumstances like landslides, floods, bad weather, bad road condition, vehicle breakdown, delay in flights due to bad weather, local political situation could contribute to the change in the program. No claim of refund will be entertained including early return from the trip, or change in itinerary due to unavoidable situations as stated above. All extra expenses (apart from the services offered as per the program) that occur in such cases should be borne directly by the clients themselves.

Mode of payment

Upon booking a 50 % deposit must be made in advance to us and the remaining 50 % is payable upon arrival in Kathmandu.

Booking procedure

We will need to obtain Special Climbing Permit for Mountaineering Expeditions from the Mountaineering section of the Ministry of Tourism, Government of Nepal, located at Bhrikuti Mandap. Once you are interested to join our expedition you can send us an acceptance letter so that we can go ahead with the formalities to acquire a permit.

We require the following documents at least two weeks before your arrival in Kathmandu for the permit.

       Bio Data of all the climbing members
       Four passport size photographs
       Application from the team leader
       Passport photocopies of all the members
       Approach route map (We will take care of it)
       Detailed itinerary (We will take care of it)
       Photograph of the peak to be climbed (We will take care of it)

We can send you the application form and the form for the bio data of the team members by post or you could also download them directly from the website of the Ministry of Tourism, Mountaineering section and then send us the completed forms by post or by courier.

Tour cancellation

A cancellation charge of 25 % will be levied on any booking cancelled three weeks prior to the departure date, 50 % for cancellations two weeks prior to departure date and no refund will be made thereafter in case of cancellation. No refunds will be made if the client fails to arrive before the designated date of departure. Nor will any refund or compensations made in case of delayed arrivals.

SOME DO’S AND DON’TS

With its diverse ethnic groups and traditional beliefs, Nepal has numerous cultural Practices that may appear unusual to a person on his/her first visit to the country.

However, to enjoy your stay in this remarkable country of white Himalayas and sparkling rivers it is important to take into consideration the different cultural aspects of the country. Here is a list of things which may be helpful to you.

The form of greetings in Nepal is “Namaste” and is performed by joining the palms together. Before entering a Nepalese home, temple and stupa remember to remove your shoes. Be careful not to use your spoon, fork or hands being used for your eating to touch other’s food, plate, cooking utensil or the serving dish.

Do not eat from other people’s plate and do not drink from other people’s bottle or glass. It is considered impure by the Nepalese. Never touch anything with your feet; this considered an offence among Nepalese. While travelling dress appropriately. Women should especially avoid dressing in skimpy outfits.

Seek permission first before entering a Hindu temple. Many Hindu temples do not allow westerners to enter. Leather articles are prohibited inside the temple precinct. Walking around temples or Stupas is traditionally done clockwise. Take photographs only after receiving permission for the object or person being photographed. Public displays of affection between man and woman are frowned upon. Do not do something that is totally alien to our environment. Develop a genuine interest to meet and talk to Nepalese people and respect their local customs.

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