‘Adventure on the last 14th 8,000 meters peaks wholly within Tibet vast scenic plateau’
- Adventure on top world’s last fourteen highest Mt. Shisapangma within Tibetan high plateau Sweeping panorama of Tibetan plateau with range of mountains views that straddles both countries
- Overland journey on old Trans-Himalayan Salt and Caravan Route of Nepal & Tibet / China
- Adventurous walks to Mt. Shisapangma Advance Base Camp within remorseless fields of ice and glaciers
- Explore traditional and impressive Tibetan villages of great interest in the harmony of Buddhist culture
- Drive along high scenic green hills of Langtang Himal within great Central Himalayan peaks
- Journey within world highest and largest plateau of Tibet-China with ever present views of mountains
- Mode of Accommodation: Hotels-Lodge treks with camping on climb
- Expeditions Grade: A Full Fledge Mountaineering Expeditions
- Trek and climb duration: 37 nights and 38 days (with drive, trek and climb)
- Total Expeditions: 42 nights & 43 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)
- Season: March to May / September to October
Mt. Shisapangma Expedition, located wholly within Tibet, China.The last 14th Eight Thousanders mountains stands at the height of 8,013 and 26,289 ft high first climbed by Chinese Expeditions lead by Mr Hsu Ching and his team of nine companions in May 2nd 1964, since then the mountains has been summited by wide world mountaineers.
Before Chinese opened Tibet to western mountaineers in 1978, little was known about Mt. Shisapangma, one and only 8,000m peaks that located entirely within Tibet; which is a mere distance close to Nepal border, shrouded behind the great, but less high, with adjoining border range of Langtang peaks.
Enterprising individuals sought mere glimpses of it during the period that other 8,000m peaks were receiving their first ascents! It is perhaps not surprising that it was the last of the 8,000m peaks to be climbed.
Not that Mt. Shisapangma Expeditions, ascent from the North-West Ridge presents least difficulty. On the contrary, it is now regarded as one of the most straight-forward 8,000 climbs and its summit is frequently achieved.
Regarded as a “holy” mountain by the local Tibetans, situated on route to Mt. Kailash towards Western Tibet, where Mt. Shisapangma located southern rim of Tibetan vast plateau, the name Shisapangma for Historians cannot fathom itsactual pronunciations, Shisapangma, Xixabangma or Gosainthan in Nepalese, where surveyors seems unable to fix her height (anything from 8,013 and 26,289 ft to 8,012m / 8,046m high).
Even first ascent by the Chinese Expeditions in 1964 is questioned, due to the lack of photographic evidence and the fact that the summit ridge sports several subsidiary “summits”.
It was 16 years after the mountain received its second ascent, by a West German team in 1980’s and it has been climbed every year since. The first Britons to climb it were Doug Scott, Alex Mclntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones via a new route on the South Face in 1982.
The original North West Ridge route is an excellent objectively quite safe, and the terrain offers good camp sites at the Tibetan Plateau (lying in the Himalayan Shadow) usually provide excellent topping-out opportunities.
Mt. Shisapangma Expedition opened for climbers with experience of alpine routes grade AD and who have been to 5,500m without ill effects. If you wish to discuss your suitability or the expedition in general, please contact us at our Office.
Yet, the mountain is perhaps the most accessible of her genre, rising only a few miles west of the Kathmandu-Lhasa Highway where Himalaya Expeditions leads you to its summit with successful triumph supported by expert and highly professional Sherpa Climbing guides on Mt. Shisapangma Expeditions.
- Day 01 Arrive in Kathmandu via respective airlines meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
- Day 02-03 At leisure in Kathmandu.
- Day 04 Drive to Syabrubesi 1,460 m – 07 hrs journey.
- Day 05 Drive to Kyirong County 3,950 m -105 k.m via Rasuwagadhi 1,800 m.
- Day 06 In Kyirong rest day for acclimatization.
- Day 07 Drive to Shisapangma Base Camp 4,900m – 05 hrs.
- Day 08-11 At the Base Camp acclimatization and preparation for the climb.
- Day 12 Towards Advanced Base Camp 5,800m.
- Day 13 Reach the Advanced Camp.
- Day 14-35 22 Days of Climbing Period to the summit and on route ABC.
- Day 36 Return to Advance Base Camp.
- Day 37 Return to Base Camp.
- Day 38 Cleaning up Base Camp.
- Day 39 Drive to Kyirong in local guesthouse - 06 hrs.
- Day 40 Drive to Dhunche town 1,900 m - 05 hrs.
- Day 41 Drive back to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel - 05 hrs.
- Day 42 In Kathmandu rest and submit expeditions report to concern department.
- Day 43 Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Arrive in Kathmandu via respective airlines meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
In Kathmandu, we will stay at the Hotel. Team members will be accommodated on a twinsharing basis. If you prefer, you may have a single room for which a supplement at extra payable.
At leisure in Kathmandu.
The priority for the day will be to check everyone’s equipment to make sure that it is equal to the conditions one can expect on Shisapangma Climb. Afternoon free for any last minute purchases that you may need to make from the well stocked climbing shops in the city.
Drive to Syabrubesi 1,460 m – 07 hrs journey.
Starting our adventure with an overland drive towards North West of Kathmandu past farm villages and towns with grand views of snowcapped peaks and then reaching at cooler areas within Langtang Himal in Dhunche 1,900 m high, a main and headquarter town of Rasuwa district around Langtang area, populated by Tamang people the hill tribe of Nepal.
From here downhill for two hours with overnight at Syabrubesi, the door to Langtang, Ganesh and into Tamang Heritage Trail and as well to Tibet border.
Drive to Kyirong County 3,950 m -105 k.m via Rasuwagadhi 1,800 m.
From Syabrubesi morning drive on newly built road linking Nepal / Tibet border to Rasuwagadhi (1800m / 15 km / few hour drive from Syabrubesi). Here received by our Tibetan counterpart guide and drivers, after completing immigration & custom formalities on both side of the frontier Nepal / Tibet at Rasuwagadhi, continue drive further to Kyirong county with first overnight stop in Tibet accommodation at local guest-house.
In Kyirong rest day for acclimatization.
A necessary and important rest day for acclimatization before heading towards higher areas into Tibetan vast plateau, this village provides a perfect place with an altitude of 3,950 m as next day drive leads above 4,500 meters and much higher over passes.At Kyirong relax and enjoy the views of Ganesh and Langtang Himal that straddles the border of Nepal and Tibet.
Drive to Shisapangma Base Camp 4,900m – 05 hrs.
From Kyirong onward where Tibetan high plateau begins as morning drive leads past Tibetan farm villages to reach on the junction of Mt. Kailash route and towards main Lhasa and Kathmandu Friendship Highway.
On reaching vast Tibetan windswept plateau offering views of Langtang and Shisapangma peaks, and then heading further east on smaller track to reach Shisapangma Base Camp at above 4,900m, situated close to Yambughangala River which drains the north side of Mt. Shisapangma.
At the Base Camp acclimatization and preparation for the climb.
First four days at Base Camp spent preparing out equipment and organizing loads for the yaks. Rest days at base camp also important days for the acclimatization, as one can feel the effects of living at nearly 5,000 meters, where all members need to be in good shape for the long route to Advance Base Camp.
Towards Advanced Base Camp 5,800m.
After loading up the yaks with all our equipments and then set off following the Yak trails on 20 km or 12 miles trek to reach at ABC (Advance Base Camp). Initially following a jeep track to a plateau above a river and then heading towards west bank of the valley to reach at ABC near the snout of Yambughangala Glacier above 5,800m, an impressive location with giant white pinnacles of the glacier leading up the valley towards top of Mt. Shisapangma.
Here unload the yaks and set up the camp which will be the take-off point for the climb. From here on we will have to do our own load carrying!
Reach the Advanced Camp.
On reaching at Advance Base Camp with necessary preparation for the long haul to the summit with time to relax and enjoy the tranquil surrounding with views of snow capped peaks.
22 Days of Climbing Period to the summit and on route ABC.
The climb from above ABC requires two or three camps depending on conditions. The climb starts with a long traverse leading to a large camping area at 6,400m. From here we traverse further, gaining a lot of height, to reach the shoulder of the mountain and Camp II at 6,900m.
All of the climbing is on scree or snow and presents some difficulties, as the North-West Ridge is easily reachable from Camp II, although it may involve snow and ice climbing up to 45 degree steep.
Fixed ropes will be placed on all steep/crevassed sections. If a high camp is required, it will be placed according to the prevailing conditions. The summit ridge is very long and it is usual to take a rising diagonal line across the snow slope below it to reach the ridge as close to the summit as possible.
Plenty of time has been allowed in case of bad weather and slow acclimatization. We intend to have enough time at the end of the expedition to make a complete withdraw from the mountain, removing all equipment and rubbish and taking it back to ABC.
Return to Advance Base Camp.
Return back to Advance base camp for necessary rest. All loads must be carried down at this time, this includes garbage.
Return to Base Camp.
All expedition members and equipment will need to be back at Base Camp by today, ready for the departure next day. Once again, yaks will be used to transport all expedition equipment from ABC to Base Camp.
Cleaning up Base Camp.
At the Base Camp clean up and packing, rubbish to be dump at designated dumping site, rest to be brought back to Kathmandu for proper disposal.
Drive to Kyirong in local guesthouse - 06 hrs.
A long drive today to reach at Kyirong frontier town, journey leads past great Tibetan dry plateau taking a newly opened route of five hours overland drive to reach the border town of Tibet-China and Nepal at Kyirong for last overnight stop in Tibet.
Drive to Dhunche town 1,900 m - 05 hrs.
Farewell to our Tibetan guides and drivers as morning starts leaving Tibet with short drive to the border post of Nepal and Tibet / Chinaat Rasuwa-Gadhi, here on completing visa and custom formalities then enter into Nepal border at Rasuwa Gadhi, here again following and completing immigration forms and continue drive on rough dirt road for a while to reach at Syabrubesi village, after a short refreshing break journey continues on winding uphill to reach at Dhunche town for overnight stop.
Drive back to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel - 05 hrs.
After a great time in Tibet with an adventure on top Mt. Everest back into green vegetation and tall trees, catch the views of Ganesh and Langtang Himal, as morning drive leads downhill reaching around warmer areas of rice fields and terraces past Ramche, Mani-Bhanjyang and Trisuli Bazaar.
From Trisuli Bazaar few hour drives brings you back at Kathmandu, then check into your hotels.
In Kathmandu rest and submit expeditions report to concern department.
A free day in Kathmandu, reserved in case of delay on drive due to road conditions, with spare day enjoy individual activities and shopping, as well to submit expeditions reports to concern Government department.
Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Today as per your international flight time, our staff transfers you to airport for final departure from the country of Himalayan Wonders with grand memories and experience on Mt. Shisapangma Expeditions.
Price includes following services:
- Accommodation sharing twin room at Hotel in Kathmandu for 5 nights on Bed & Breakfast basis.
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu.
- Guided sightseeing tour as per itinerary with applicable entrance fees.
- Hotel / Guest House accommodation in Tibet as per itinerary on full board basis.
- Transportation by private vehicle.
- English speaking Tibetan Guide throughout the trip in Tibet.
- Camping arrangement as per itinerary backed by Nepali Crew at Everest BC, Interim Camp, ABC and Higher Camps on full board basis.
- All applicable Climbing Permit and Entry Fees.
- Yak & Yakmen to carry loads between BC-ABC-BC.
- Transportation Kathmandu – Tibet Border – Kathmandu by private non AC Vehicle.
- Service of Nepalese Climbing Sherpas (1 member : 1 Sherpa) with their equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
- Royalty payable to Tibet Government for Nepalese staff.
- High Altitude Tents, Rations, EPI Gases, Pots and Pans for High Altitude Camps.
- Walkie Talkie for communication purpose.
- Supply of Satellite Phone for emergency use.
- Supply of Medical Kit for emergency use.
- Tibet Visa Fees.
Our price does not include followings:
- International flights to / from Kathmandu.
- Nepal entry visa fees.
- Lunch and dinner while in Kathmandu Hotel.
- Travel, Medical and Personal insurance.
- Expenses of personal nature, i.e. tipping, laundry, bottled drinks, bar bills etc.
- Any expense for early returning member due sickness, injury or any other reason. No refund will be entertained for any unused service.
- Extra expense occurred due to unexpected circumstances like cancellation of internal flights, floods, strike etc.
- Personal clothing and all sorts of personal climbing gear.
For the Expedition of 8000m, one should not compromise with the quality of equipment. Please try to buy / pack well tested and good brand equipment so that your dream to climb the mountain does not disappoint you because of lack of equipment after the years of hard work, dedication and financial expenses.
Here will be a guideline of personal equipment that you need to organize for such extreme climb:
Personal Climbing Equipment List for 7500-8848meters
|01||Three season sleeping bag(-40 Degree)||1||1|
|02||Three season sleeping bag for B.C||1||1|
|04||Down Gore-Tex Suit||1||1|
|05||Down Jacket (-30 Degree)||1||1|
|06||Fleece Pile Jacket (Thermal)||2||2|
|07||Fleece Pile Trouser Warm (Thermal)||2||2|
|08||Windproof Jacket &Trouser||1||1 Pair|
|09||Thermal Suit (Millet/Mountain Hardware/Others)||2||2|
|10||T-shirt and Woolen Shirt Warm||3/3||6|
|13||Down Mitten Gloves-40 Degree||1||1|
|14||Woolen Hat, Fleece Hat & Balaclava||1||3|
|18||Face Mask (Full)||1||1|
|19||Thick Woolen Shocks & Normal Shocks||4pairs/5pairs||9 Pairs|
|20||Trekking Boot Good Condition||1 pair||1 Pair|
|01||Sunglasses UV 400 (Julboo/Ockley/others)||2||2|
|02||Snow Glasses UV 400 (Julboo/Ockley/Cebe/others)||1||1|
|04||Sun-block Cream (Small Tube 30SPF 125ml and 50SPF 125ml)||½||3|
|06||Headlight with Spare Bulbs||1||2|
|07||Enough Batteries for Headlight||1 Pair||10 Pairs|
|08||One-sport Climbing Boot (Millet or similar)||1 pair||1 Pair|
|09||Snow Gaiters Water Proof (For Winter use)||2||2|
|10||Crampon Good Condition (New and Old)||1||2|
|11||Normal/Classical Ice Axe||1||1|
|12||If possible Technical Ice –Axe In a Group||1 set||1|
|13||Harness Adjustable Good Condition (Mix Climbing)||1||1|
|14||Ice screw Black Diamond or similar (Each Member -Size 13cm and16cm)||1||2|
|15||Screw Gate Carabineer (HMS)||3||3|
|16||Non Screw Gate Carabineer||2||2|
|17||Ascender (Jumar) Right Hand||1||1|
|18||Belay Device( Figure of 8/ATC)||1||1|
|19||Backpack 50ltr.Capacity with Waterproof Cover||1||1|
|20||Rock Pitton (3 Sizes - 6cm/8cm/12cm)||1||3|
|22||Tape Sling - Each Member(60cm and 120cm)||1||2|
|23||Spare Changing Clothes for Low Elevation|
|24||Assistant Rope - 7mm||5/8m||2 Pcs|
|26||Day Pack (Capacity 35 Ltrs with Waterproof Cover)||1||1|
|28||Personal Medication &First Aid Kit||1 set||1 Set|
|30||Water Bottle capacity 1Ltrs||2||2|