‘Adventure on top roof of the world through world largest and highest Tibetan Plateau’
- Adventure on top Mt. Everest with sweeping panorama of Tibet plateau.
- Overland journey on old Trans-Himalayan Salt and Caravan Route of Nepal & Tibet / China.
- On the footsteps of late and legendary mountaineers Mallory and Irving to the summit of Mt. Everest.
- Adventurous walks to Mt. Everest Advance Base Camp within remorseless fields of ice and glaciers.
- Explore traditional and impressive Tibetan villages of great interest in the harmony of Buddhist culture.
- Drive along high scenic green hills of Langtang Himal within great Central Himalayan peaks.
Journey within world highest and largest plateau of Tibet-China with ever present views of mountains.
- Mode of Accommodation: Hotels - Lodge on drive with camping at BC / ABC & Climb
- Trekking Grade: Adventurous
- Expeditions Grade: A Full Fledge Mountaineering Expedition
- Trek and climb duration: 53 nights and 54 days (With drive, trek and climb)
- Total Expeditions: 59 nights 60 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)
- Season: March to May
Everest North Col Expedition, on the classic route to the roof top of the world, within largest and highest plateau on this planet at Tibet-China.
Everest North Col Expeditions leads you to more impressive views than its South Face of Nepalese side. Rising in a sheer 10,000 ft / 3,000 m. from the Rongbuk Glacier, it towers above the Tibetan plateau. It was to this side of the mountain that the British Expedition in the 1920's and 30'scame, when Nepal was closed to foreigners.
Everest North Col Expeditions, first ascent by the Chinese team in 1960, the North Ridge since then has been climbed numerous times. In the last few years, it has received the attention of several commercial expeditions, and with careful planning the same success rates as the south side is possible. Gaining 8000mis demanding but it is the last 848m that are the most difficult.
Himalaya Expeditions (HimEx Nepal) runs Everest North Col Expeditions during pre-monsoon period where journey leads on an old Trans Himalayan Salt / Caravan Trail of Nepal and Tibet / China through the frontier town of Kyirong or Kyidrong and Dzongga) County at above 2,890 m high.
Everest North Col Expeditions in mid May offers the greatest chances of reaching the summit, after acclimatizing in April and the early part of May.
- Day 01 Arrive in Kathmandu via respective airlines meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
- Day 02 - 03 At leisure in Kathmandu.
- Day 04 Drive to Syabrubesi 1,460 m - 07 hrs journey.
- Day 05 Drive to Kyirong County 3,950 m -105 k.m via Rasuwagadhi 1,800 m.
- Day 06 In Kyirong rest day for acclimatization.
- Day 07 Drive to Shegar or New Tingri 4, 350 m - 05 hrs.
- Day 08 At Shegar (New Tingri).
- Day 09 Drive Everest Base Camp - 05 hrs journey.
- Day 10 - 12 At Everest Base Camp for rest and acclimatization as well preparations.
- Day 13 - 14 Trek to Advance Base Camp.
- Day 15 - 51 (36 Days) Climbing Period and ferrying equipment and food to respective camps.
- Day 52 Return to Advance Base Camp.
- Day 53 Return Everest Base Camp.
- Day 54 At Everest Base Camp for cleanup of all the unnecessary waste / garbage.
- Day 55 Drive to OldTingri 4,260 m - 05 hrs.
- Day 56 Drive to Kyirong in local guesthouse - 06 hrs.
- Day 57 Drive to Dhunche town 1,900 m - 05 hrs.
- Day 58 Drive back to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel - 05 hrs.
- Day 59 In Kathmandu rest and submit expeditions report to concern department.
- Day 60 Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Arrive in Kathmandu via respective airlines meet our staff and transfer to Hotel.
In Kathmandu, we will stay at the Hotel. Team members will be accommodated on a twinsharing basis. If you prefer, you may have a single room for which a supplement at extra payable.
Day 02 - 03:
At leisure in Kathmandu.
The priority for the day will be to check everyone's equipment to make sure that it is equal to the conditions one can expect on Everest. The afternoon will be free for any last minute purchases that you may need to make from the well-stocked climbing shops in the city.
Drive to Syabrubesi 1,460 m - 07 hrs journey.
Starting our adventure with an overland drive towards North West of Kathmandu past farm villages and towns with grand views of snow capped peaks and then reaching at cooler areas within Langtang Himal in Dhunche 1,900 m high, a main and headquarter town of Rasuwa district around Langtang area, populated by Tamang people the hill tribe of Nepal.
From here downhill for one hour with overnight at Syabrubesi, the door to Langtang, Ganesh and into Tamang Heritage Trail and as well to Tibet border.
Drive to Kyirong County 3,950 m -105 k.m via Rasuwagadhi 1,800 m.
From Syabrubesi morning drive on newly built road linking Nepal / Tibet border to Rasuwagadhi (1800m / 15 km / 1 hr from Syabrubesi).Here received by our Tibetan counterpart guide and drivers, after completing immigration & custom formalities on both side of the frontier Nepal / Tibet at Rasuwagadhi, continue drive further to Kyirong county with first overnight stop in Tibet accommodation at local guest-house.
In Kyirong rest day for acclimatization.
A necessary and important rest day for acclimatization before heading towards higher areas into Tibetan vast plateau, this village provides a perfect place with an altitude of 3,950 m as next day drive leads above 4,500 meters and much higher over passes.At Kyirong relax and enjoy the views of Ganesh and Langtang Himal that straddles the border of Nepal and Tibet.
Drive to Shegar or New Tingri 4, 350 m - 05 hrs.
From Kyirong onward Tibetan high plateau begins as morning drive leads past Tibetan farm villages to reach on top of Lalung-la Pass (5,050m) with views of Mt. Shisapangma (8013m highest within Tibet). After Lalung-la driving on vast Tibetan plateau with high and dry terrain to Old Tingri with first glimpse of Everest and Cho-Oyo peaks, from here few hours drive to Shegar also known as New Tingri and then transfer to your hotel or lodge for overnight stop.
At Shegar (New Tingri).
At Shegar for acclimatization before heading towards Everest Base Camp and towards higher elevation, optional visit around local town just 20 minutes drive south from the main highway and visit the Monastery located on the cliff edge, which was actually a Dzong / Fort in the past centuries with the monastery within Dzong a walled fortress.
Drive Everest Base Camp - 05 hrs journey.
Just few minutes from the main highway our route diverts towards Rongbuk and EverestBase Camp. On the way we pass over the Pang La (16,400 ft/ 5,200 m), which gives greatviews of the route and the entire North East Face of Everest.
The road then descends to the foot of the Rongbuk valley and before we reach base campwe stop at the Rongbuk Monastery. From Rongbuk a short 20-30 minutes drive takes us tothe Base Camp.
Day 10 - 12:
At Everest Base Camp for rest and acclimatization as well preparations.
At Everest Base Camp, preparation for the big climb, sorting out the gear and to get fully acclimatized with time for rest and to enjoy the views of towering North Face of Mt. Everest.
Day 13 - 14:
Trek to Advance Base Camp.
Morning packing loads for the yaks to reach Advanced Base Camp, which is about 22 km distance up the valley, requiring two days to reach using interim camps on route. After loading the yaks and then heading towards ABC.
On walk to ABC fantastic viewsof Everest North Face, and then later reaching our intermediate camp, by the river at the half way point. We set off early in the morning with the yaks on the second day to allow plenty time in the afternoon to set up arudimentary camp for the evening, of course to be finished the next day, and at Advance BaseCamp for necessary preparation for the climb.
Day 15 - 51:
(36 Days) Climbing Period and ferrying equipment and food to respective camps.
ASCENT OF MOUNT EVEREST:
From Advance Base Camp following up above the moraine towards Everest North Col. and cross the glacier easily to its foot, about 1,000 ft / 300 m of fairly deep snow climbing leads to the Col at 7,066 m. The Col formsa fairly wide ridge, which has ample room for tents. This will be Camp I. To the south, the Colrises to become the North Ridge.
This is straight-forward snow climbing, eventually steepinginto rocky shelves and short buttresses. A second camp will be placed at around 7,700 m.The route to the North East Ridge leading from the top of the North Ridge to the summit willdepend on conditions prevailing at the time. We will either follow the North Ridge in it is entirelyto the crest of the North-North-East Ridge or make a rising traverse to the right to reach theridge at a higher point.
Our last camp will be placed at around 8,300 m.The final section of the climb takes in the notorious first and second steps. These are short,but abrupt rises on the North-East Ridge, which will provide testing climbing at extreme altitude! It was on the second step that Mallory and Irvine were last seen before they disappeared in 1924. Once this has been ascended, the ridge leads more easily to the summit.
Base Camp (5,200 m): We will spend about 3-4 days here after driving. These days will beused for rest as well as separating our loads to be used at Base Camp and higher camps.
Interim Camp (5,800 m): Interim Camp will be reached after 5-6 hours from Base Camp. Wewill need to spend one night here since BC to ABC is not possible in a single day.
Advance Base Camp (6,400 m): ABC will be reached after another 5-6 hours walk fromInterim Camp. This will be our main place to stock our equipment and ration for the climbingperiod.
We will bring all our equipment, gears & rations from BC to her by Yaks. We will spend about 5-6 days depending upon the situation for proper acclimatization. While clients are resting, Sherpa staffs will start setting up camps higher up and re-stock the equipment and rations.
North Col (7,066 m): It’s about 4 hours climb to North Col from ABC. North Col is anothergood point for acclimatization. Sherpa staffs will restock the loads to North Col first. Its about 6 hours round trip journey from ABC, so clients will also climb North Col as climbing practice and get acclimatized.
After loads have been fully stocked at North Col our expert team of Sherpa guides will head towards Camp II.
Camp II (7,350 m): It is another 4-5 hours walk from North Col.
Camp III (8,300 m): After Camp II is fully stocked, and then Sherpa will start restocking Camp III,
which is about 7-8 hours walk from North Col. From here we will return to North Col or even
ABC for Rest:
Team members will also climb up to Camp II for getting fully acclimatized before heading for summit.
After things are properly stocked and clients are fully acclimatized, looking at the weathercondition, the climb will go like this:
ABC to North Col : (Spend night at North Col)
North Col to Camp II : (Spend night at Camp II with Oxygen Support for sleeping)
Camp II to Camp III : (Walk during the day and take some rest)
Camp III to Summit : Start around 10 - 10.30 pm
Camp III to 1st Step : 2 - 2 ½ hours walk
1st Step to 2nd Step : 1 ½ hours walk
2nd Step to 3rd Step : 1 ½ hours walk
3rd Step to after snow face : 1 ½ hours walk
Snow face to Summit : 1 ½ hours walk
Summit to Camp II : 5 - 6 hours walk
Camp II to ABC : 3 - 4 hours walk
Oxygen & Medical Support will be available at 2nd Step and Camp II
Return to Advance Base Camp.
Yaks arrive at ABC for return journey to base camp, where all loads must be carried down at this time including all garbage.
Return Everest Base Camp.
Descend to base camp and start to organize departure from Everest with packing and sorting out gear.
At Everest Base Camp for cleanup of all the unnecessary waste / garbage.
At Everest Base Camp clean up and packing, rubbish to be dump at designated dumping
site, rest to be brought back to Kathmandu for proper disposal.
Drive to OldTingri 4,260 m - 05 hrs.
After packing and getting ready from the base camp where drive leads past Rongbuk Monastery areas and then towards Tibetan farm villages and over scenic high pass of Pang-la at 5,200 views with last grand panorama of five world highest mountains Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho-Oyu and Shisapangma with array of peaks.
Drive continues downhill to join the main Lhasa-Kathmandu Friendship Highway near at Shegar, as our journey leads further to Old Tingri for overnight stop with views of Everest and Cho-Oyu.
Drive to Kyirong in local guesthouse - 06 hrs.
A long drive today to reach at Kyirong frontier town, journey leads past Laylung pass taking a newly opened route of 6 hours overland drive to reach the border town of Tibet-China and Nepal at Kyirong for last overnight stop in Tibet.
Drive to Dhunche town 1,900 m - 05 hrs.
Farewell to our Tibetan guides and drivers as morning starts leaving Tibet with short drive to the border post of Nepal and Tibet / ChinaatRasuwa-Gadhi, here on completing visa and custom formalities then enter into Nepal border at Rasuwa Gadhi, here again following and completing immigration forms and continue drive on rough dirt road for a while to reach at Syabrubesi village, after a short refreshing break journey continues on winding uphill to reach at Dhunche town for overnight stop.
Drive back to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel - 05 hrs.
After a great time in Tibet with an adventure on top Mt. Everest back into green vegetation and tall trees, catch the views of Ganesh and Langtang Himal, as morning drive leads downhill reaching around warmer areas of rice fields and terraces past Ramche, Mani-Bhanjyang and Trisuli Bazaar. From Trisuli Bazaar few hour drive brings you back at Kathmandu, then check into your hotels.
In Kathmandu rest and submit expeditions report to concern department.
A free day in Kathmandu, reserved in case of delay on drive due to road conditions, with spare day enjoy individual activities and shopping, as well to submit expeditions reports to concern Government department.
Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Today as per your international flight time, our staff transfers you to airport for final departure from the country of Himalayan Wonders with grand memories and experience on Mt. Everest North Col Expeditions.
Price includes following services:
- Accommodation sharing twin room at Hotel in Kathmandu for 5 nights on Bed & Breakfast basis.
- Airport transfers in Kathmandu.
- Guided sightseeing tour as per itinerary with applicable entrance fees.
- Hotel / Guest House accommodation in Tibet as per itinerary on full board basis.
- Transportation by private vehicle.
- English speaking Tibetan Guide throughout the trip in Tibet.
- Camping arrangement as per itinerary backed by Nepali Crew at Everest BC, Interim Camp, ABC and Higher Camps on full board basis.
- All applicable Climbing Permit and Entry Fees.
- Yak & Yakmen to carry loads between BC-ABC-BC.
- Transportation Kathmandu – Tibet Border – Kathmandu by private non AC Vehicle.
- Service of Nepalese Climbing Sherpas (1 member : 1 Sherpa) with their equipment allowance, daily wages and insurance.
- Royalty payable to Tibet Government for Nepalese staff.
- High Altitude Tents, Rations, EPI Gases, Pots and Pans for High Altitude Camps.
- Walkie Talkie for communication purpose.
- Supply of Satellite Phone for emergency use.
- Supply of Oxygen (1 member : 5 Cylinders) with hiring charge of mask & regulator sets.
- Load ferry bonus & summit bonus for climbing Sherpas.
- Climbing Route opening charge.
- Transfer of Expedition Loads to / from Base Camp.
- Insurance for Nepalese crew.
- Supply of Medical Kit for emergency use.
- Tibet Visa Fees.
Our price does not include followings:
- International flights to / from Kathmandu.
- Nepal entry visa fees.
- Lunch and dinner while in Kathmandu Hotel.
- Travel, Medical and Personal insurance.
- Expenses of personal nature, i.e. tipping, laundry, bottled drinks, bar bills etc.
- Any expense for early returning member due sickness, injury or any other reason. No refund will be entertained for any unused service.
- Extra expense occurred due to unexpected circumstances like cancellation of internal flights, floods, strike etc.
- Personal clothing and all sorts of personal climbing gear.
For the Expedition of 8000m, one should not compromise with the quality of equipment. Please try to buy / pack well tested and good brand equipment so that your dream to climb the mountain does not disappoint you because of lack of equipment after the years of hard work, dedication and financial expenses.
Here will be a guideline of personal equipment that you need to organize for such extreme climb:
Personal Climbing Equipment List for 7500-8848meters
|01||Three season sleeping bag (-40 Degree)||1||1|
|02||Three season sleeping bag for B.C||1||1|
|04||Down Gore-Tex Suit||1||1|
|05||Down Jacket (-30 Degree)||1||1|
|06||Fleece Pile Jacket (Thermal)||2||2|
|07||Fleece Pile Trouser Warm (Thermal)||2||2|
|08||Windproof Jacket &Trouser||1||1 Pair|
|09||Thermal Suit (Millet / Mountain Hardware / Others)||2||2|
|10||T-shirt and Woolen Shirt Warm||3/3||6|
|13||Down Mitten Gloves - 40 Degree||1||1|
|14||Woolen Hat, Fleece Hat & Balaclava||1||3|
|18||Face Mask (Full)||1||1|
|19||Thick Woolen Shocks & Normal Shocks||4 pairs / 5 pairs||9 Pairs|
|20||Trekking Boot Good Condition||1 pair||1 Pair|
|21||Camp Shoes||1||1 Pairs|
|01||Sunglasses UV 400 (Julboo / Ockley / others)||2||2|
|02||Snow Glasses UV 400(Julboo / Ockley / Cebe / others)||1||1|
|04||Sun-block Cream (Small Tube 30SPF 125ml and 50SPF 125ml)||½||3|
|06||Headlight with Spare Bulbs||1||2|
|07||Enough Batteries for Headlight||1 Pair||10 Pairs|
|08||One-sport Climbing Boot (Millet or similar)||1 pair||1 Pair|
|09||Snow Gaiters Water Proof (For Winter use)||2||2|
|10||Crampon Good Condition (New and Old)||1||2|
|11||Normal / Classical Ice Axe||1||1|
|12||If possible Technical Ice – Axe Ina Group||1 set||1|
|13||Harness Adjustable Good Condition (Mix Climbing)||1||1|
|14||Ice screw Black Diamond or similar (Each Member - Size 13cm and 16cm)||1||2|
|15||Screw Gate Carabineer (HMS)||3||3|
|16||Non ScrewGate Carabineer||2||2|
|17||Ascender (Jumar) Right Hand||1||1|
|18||Belay Device( Figure of 8 / ATC)||1||1|
|19||Backpack 50ltr.Capacity with Waterproof Cover||1||1|
|20||Rock Pitton (3 Sizes - 6cm / 8cm / 12cm)||1||3|
|22||Tape Sling - Each Member (60cm and 120cm)||1||2|
|23||Spare Changing Clothes for Low Elevation|
|24||Assistant Rope - 7mm||5/8m||2 Pcs|
|25||Carry Mat (Thermarest)||1||2|
|26||Day Pack (Capacity 35 Ltrs with Waterproof Cover)||1||1|
|28||Personal Medication & First Aid Kit||1 set||1 Set|
|30||Water Bottle capacity 1Ltrs||2||2|