The Expedition
This expedition will be led by professional and competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world’s highest mountains. To match toughness of high mountain, it is recommended that the team members should be suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised to ensure hundred percent success. But it doesn’t mean that you are not supported by Sherpa guides. To ensure your success, you will have a high level of support backed by strong, confident leadership. This will maximise your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.

Climbing:
From base camp on the Nepalese side, the route to the summit can be divided into four separate sections:

The Khumbu Icefall
Before venturing into the Khumbu Icefall, members will be practised in the specialist techniques of secure movement through complex ice terrain including ladder crossing and the use of fixed rope. As soon as the route through the Icefall is prepared, we will be able to start carrying loads to camp 1. All members will need to participate in the load carrying although this will be kept to a minimum. The Sherpas will do the bulk of the load carrying in order to prevent members from burning themselves out too early.

The Western Cwm
A normal course of events would be for everyone to reach camp 1 with a light load and then return to base camp. A day or two later, the team would occupy camp 1 and spend two or three nights there. During that time, members may make a carry to camp 2, once the route has been prepared. Camp 2 is near the top of the Western Cwm and although this would not be fixed with ropes, members would need to be roped-up in case of hidden crevasses. Following this, everyone would then return to base camp for a few days’ rest.

The Lhotse Face
The team will then move up and occupy camp 2, which is in a spectacular position at the foot of the South West Face of Everest. Camp 2 is effectively an advance base camp and will be well stocked with supplies, including mess tent and cook tent. After spending two nights here, the team will make a light load carry to camp 3 on the Lhotse Face, at around 7,200m (23,600ft). An ascent of the Lhotse Face will give everyone a really good look at the climb and a flavour of things to come. We will then return to base camp for a prolonged rest while the Sherpa team and the expedition leaders prepare the top section of the climb. This will be a real chance to recharge the batteries after a tough few weeks and to focus on the final ascent. During this phase, our past climbers have found it very beneficial to go all the way down to Pheriche, which at 4,300m (14,000ft) is low enough to recuperate fully.

The Summit (South East) Ridge
When the weather is settled, the team will move up, camp by camp, sleeping on oxygen at camp 3 and on the South Col, at camp 4. The summit day will start at around midnight, when, climbing on oxygen, we will set off with head torches from the South Col. The route soon steepens as we ascend a 500m (1,600ft) snow slope to reach the crest of the South East Ridge at around 8,400m (27,560ft) by dawn. The sun will bring with it great views across the Kangshung Face. The ridge above this point starts easily and then steepens below the South Summit. Fixed ropes lead steeply for about 200m (650ft) from below the South Summit. Standing on the South Summit the true summit looks very close but halfway between is the notorious Hillary Step which is a short, steep rock and snow groove about 10m (30ft) long. Strenuous jumaring and climbing up this leads to the final easy ridge and the top. We would expect to reach the summit by no later than 11am.

For the successful summiteers, it will be important for everyone to have left the summit by 12 o’clock noon for the descent. The entire team should be back before dark which comes rapidly at around 6:30 pm. The descent is extremely long and tiring and energy should be kept in reserve for this.

After spending another night sleeping with oxygen, the team will descend from camp 4, on the South Col, directly to camp 2 and then, the next day, to base camp.

Acclimatisation
To enable all expedition members to acclimatise well and so maximise their chance of success, the expedition will be nearly 10 weeks long. Adaptation to the altitude takes time and there can be no short-cuts, even if supplementary oxygen is used in the final stages. The atmospheric pressure at base camp (5,500m) is half that at sea level. On the summit of Everest, it is only one third. A thorough programme of acclimatisation is built into the itinerary, which consists of regulated height gains, followed by descent and rest. Before the final ascent to the summit of Everest, there will be an opportunity for climbers to descend to one of the many teahouses below base camp for a good rest in preparation for the toughest stage of the expedition, the climb to the summit.

Experience Required
This expedition is not a “guided” ascent. It is a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb the world’s highest mountain without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership and one climbing Sherpa per team member - this will maximise your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.

To join us on Everest, you need to be fully conversant with mountaineering techniques. Ideally, having completed Alpine climbs equivalent of AD and have prior altitude experience of around 6,000m. Climbers who have achieved ascents of mountains such as Island Peak, Huascaran, Illimani, Denali or similar, could well consider Everest if they have the necessary commitment and determination.

All team members need to be in excellent physical condition if they are to have a realistic chance of staying strong right up to the summit. Climbing an 8,000m peak is a tough test of endurance; both physical and psychological, so you need to make sure that you are prepared for the effort required to sustain the duration of the expedition.

Support Staffs:
Our Sherpa Team is one of the best high-altitude climbing support teams on the mountain. Our staff has worked with us for many years to ensure quality and dependable performance.

Environmental Commitment and Social Practices:
Himalaya Expeditions not only strives to offer the highest standard of service, but also to be the most socially and environmentally responsible adventure travel company in Nepal. To further our commitment, Himalaya Expeditions has joined forces with the International Porter Protest Group, which has developed guidelines for the proper treatment of porters including making sure porters have adequate gear and equipment, proper shelter arrangements, proper food, cooking equipment and water, proper medical care for sick or injured porters, insurance where available, acceptable weight limits on loads, and fair wages.

Although there are many interpretations of “ecotourism,” Himalaya Expeditions believes that everyone benefits by choosing a company that is respectful of the environment and the local cultures. At Himalaya Expeditions, we practiced ecotourism long before it became a buzzword and we have a broad understanding of the issues. We are always involved in training, conservation, and social development programs that ensure that the net impact of our company in Nepal is positive. We have been accredited by UIAA as Environment friend company.

Food Menu:
The menu for our climb is specially prepared to provide a balanced diet of fresh fruit, vegetables, plenty of protein and carbohydrates. We choose food items that are easiest to digest at high-altitude. Our cooks undergo extensive culinary training, with many having previously worked as chefs in local restaurants. The cooks are particularly vigilant in their hygiene practices since contracting stomach bugs is common for visitors to the developing world.

Dinners typically include a main course of pastas and rice dishes served with vegetable, soup and salad. Lentils, beans or chicken are provided with dinner for a protein source. Lunches at base camp consist of a hot meal similar to our dinner menu. Breakfast is your choice: granola, oatmeal, toast, eggs, and sometimes pancakes or French toast. Coffee, tea, hot drinks and snacks are readily available throughout the day.

Since it is difficult to eat at the higher camps, we offer a wide variety of tasty food. We do NOT serve your typical freeze-dried packaged meal, but delicious pre-cooked meals or pastas and rice dinners. At camp II we have a mess tent and a dedicated cook who prepares dishes similar to those had at base camp. In addition, there are plenty of teas, hot drinks, soups, and salty and sweet snacks to munch on including European sausages and cheeses.

Equipment checklist
Down jacket
Strong, comfortable walking shoes for the trek
Thermal undergarments like long johns, underwear, vest
Sunglasses
Warm clothes
Trekking boots (only for treks)
Climbing boots including Koflasch
Heavy socks
Balaclava/ warm cap/ hat
Scarf/ mask
Walking sticks/ ski poles (only for treks)
Windbreakers/ jacket
Climbing equipment like karabiners, jumar, harness, climbing ropes (both fixed rope and main rope), snow bar, rock pitons, ice screws, snow shovel, crampons, helmet, gaiter
Flashlight
Rain gear/ umbrella
Sunscreen/ lip balm
Down sleeping bag
Water bottle
Moisturizing lotion
Toilet paper
A knife with a can opener
High altitude VE 25 tents
Oxygen with regulator and mask
High altitude fuel like propane/ butane gas, burners, aerosol
High altitude food

Equipment provided Base Camp, ABC & Higher Camps:
Since this is a Sherpa Guided Expedition, basically we provide everything except your personal clothing and personal climbing. We will try to make Base Camp a restful place to allow relaxation and preparation for the summit. During stay at

Base Camp & ABC we provide:
• A tent for each member
• Gas Lamp
• Shower Tent
• Kitchen Tent
• Dining Tent
• Toilet Tent
• Tables & back rest Chairs
• All kitchen utensils & equipment
• 3 meals everyday followed by tea, coffee, juices etc.
• Cooking Gas & Stoves
• Service of Nepali Cook preparing food
• First Aid Kit
• Snow Shovel

For Higher Camps, we will provide following equipment:
• 2-3 men Tent for Sleeping at different Camps
• Fixed Ropes
• Ice Screws
• Snow Pittons
• Oxygen, Mask & Regulator Set (7 Cylinders per member)
• Gas Stove
• 260 Grams Gas cylinder X 12 per member
• Kitchen utensils
• HA Food

Oxygen:
Each climbing members will be provided 7 bottles of Oxygen Cylinders for the climbing period. This will be more than sufficient in normal standard. Beside this we will have oxygen available at Base Camp, ABC & North Col for emergency use. However if some climbers wants to have extra oxygen for their convenience, this is available at BC/ABC at Extra Cost.

Insurance
Special travel insurance is available from us which provides a wide range of cover. A choice of either ‘Expedition only’ insurance and ‘Annual’ insurance is available for most trips. Expedition team can do their insurance directly also. Insurance is must in such high altitude expeditions.

Additional Information
If you wish to discuss any aspect of the expedition or your suitability for it, please contact us by telephone:
977-1-5545900/5539900 or fax us at 977-1-5526575
E-mail: InfoGuys@HimexNepal.com

When to visit
The best period for the expedition is during spring (Late March to early May) and autumn (Late September to early November). During these periods the sky is clear, the passes are free of snow and the views are excellent. Days are quite pleasant and warm but nights could be chilly with temperature dropping below freezing point. Furthermore there is not much snow and the days are clearer and less windy making it appropriate for climbing.

Medication
First aid kit with medication for altitude sickness, nausea, dehydration, pain killers, medication for dysentery, diarrhea, bandages, water purifier, antiseptic creams, throat lozenges, eye drops, antibiotics, nasal sprays, pain relievers in tubes or spray cans. There is neither smallpox nor malaria in Nepal/Tibet. You do not need the cholera vaccine. However it is best to check if you have had inoculations against typhoid, tetanus, diphtheria and Gamma Globulin against Hepatitis A.

Medical Kit
Though we provide a comprehensive medical kit it is better if you carry a simple but adequate medical kit without taking much space in your baggage. The following is recommended as tried and tested list of items.

Asprin or Panadol - for pain or fever.
Antihistamine - useful as a decongestant for colds, allergies, to ease the itch from insect bites and stings or to help prevent motion sickness
Antibiotics-useful if you are traveling well off the beaten track but they must be prescribed
Kaolin preparation (Pepto-Bismol), Imodium or Lomotil - for stomach upsets and to stop diarrhea and dehydration
Rehydration mixture - for treatment of severe diarrhea and dehydration
Antiseptic, Mercurochrome and Antibiotic powder or similar ‘dry’ spray-for cuts and grazes
Calamine lotion-to ease irritation from bites and stings
Bandages and Band-Aids- for minor injuries and wounds Scissors, Tweezers and a Thermometer
Insect repellent, sun block, sun tan lotion, lip balm
Throat Lozenges (Strepsils)
Moleskin Sulamyd 10% eye drops.
Acetaminophen (paracetamol)
Antacid tablets

Prevention the Best Medicine:
Care in what you eat and drink is the most important health rule. The number one rule is not to consume water including ice. Reputable brands of bottled water or soft drinks are generally fine. Take care with fruit juice, particularly if water may have been added. Milk should be treated with care as it is not often pasteurized. Boiled milk is fine if it is kept hygienically and yoghurt is usually good. Tea or coffee should also be OK since the water would have been boiled. Salads and fruit should be washed with purified water or peeled whenever possible. Ice cream is usually OK if it is a reputable brand name, but avoid ice cream that has been melted and refrozen. Thoroughly cooked food is the safest bet but not if it has been left to cool. Stomach upsets are the most likely travel health hazard but the majority of these upsets are relatively minor. Wash your hands frequently as it’s quite easy to contaminate your own food. You should clean your teeth with purified water rather than straight from the tap. Avoid climatic extremes. Keep out of the sun when it is hot, dress warmly when it is cold. Avoid potential diseases by dressing sensibly. You can get worm infections through bare feet. Try to avoid insect bites by covering bare skin when insects are around, by screening windows or by using insect repellents.

Visa formalities
A valid passport is required for expedition in Nepal. The Nepalese visa can be obtained at the port of entry upon arrival. Ask multiple visa costs US$ 80 and is valid for 60 days. A single entry visa costs US$ 30 and is valid for the same number of days. Please do not forget to carry four passport size photos with you for the trip.

Money matters
Nepalese rupee is the standard currency in Nepal. As of now the exchange for 1 US$ = 70 rupees, which is subject to change. All banks and business establishment with foreign exchange transaction authority accept traveler’s cheque and foreign currency. All major credit cards are also accepted in Kathmandu. However all banks charge a minimum commission for all credit card transaction.

Airport tax
The airport tax at Tribhuwan International airport is Nepalese Rs. 1130 and Rs 565 tourist service charge payable at the airport before departure. The airport tax and service charge are not included in our cost and payable directly by the clients.

Photography
The sunlight is very bright during the daytime due to the thin air so it would be best to seek the advice from the stores before you purchase your films. Not all of the monasteries and places of interest are open for filming. Some places levy a small amount for every picture taken while in some places it is strictly prohibited so it is advisable to seek the advice of your guide before you take a photo.

Time Zones
Nepal is 5 hours 45 minutes ahead of GMT.

Accommodation
Accommodation in Kathmandu will be in Four Star standard hotel usually in Thamel, a tourist hub. All rooms have attached bathrooms with hot and cold showers. Accommodation in Kathmandu is normally on twin sharing bed and breakfast basis.

Eating out
Kathmandu offers various dining experiences. There is everything to suit your palate and pocket. Restaurants in the capital serve Thai, Chinese, Korean, Continental, Italian, Nepalese, French, Mexican and Indian cuisine to the local, expatriates and the tourists. Eateries in Kathmandu vary from the simple roadside eatery to the five star outlets.

Transportation
Comfortable cars, jeeps or tourist coaches will be provided for all transportation depending on the size of the group in Nepal. During the trek all equipments will be carried by porters / yaks to / from Base Camp.

Group size
The size of the group could vary from 4 - 12 people. The smallest number of people in a group is 4 persons and the largest could go up to 12 persons.

Altitude Sickness
Sometimes travelers face health hazards mainly due to the high altitude. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a frequent problem in the Himalayan region. It can affect a traveler is various ways that have little to do with age, sex or physical fitness. Acclimatization to altitude above 3000 m takes time to adjust. The body undergoes a number of physiological changes, some of which are increased pulse and respiratory rate. Others appear slowly over a period of weeks like the change in acid base balance and production of extra red blood cells. These changes and the effect of intense sunlight, strenuous walks and dehydration may cause some mild or vague symptoms such as loss of appetite, fatigue, headache, nausea, dizziness, palpitations, sleeplessness, breathlessness.

The best treatment is prevention. Do not exert yourself or walk too fast. Drink plenty of liquid, eat well and watch for warning signs. Keep physical activity to the minimum. Take regular doses of diamox as directed by your physician. If AMS symptoms are seen do not hesitate to interact with your guide or escort. If you have a history of respiratory and heart problem please consult your doctor before embarking on any one of our trips.

Risk and Liability
Himalaya Expeditions means safety, reliability and the professional personnel to ensure your convenience at all times. However sometimes unforeseen circumstances like landslides, floods, bad weather, bad road condition, vehicle breakdown, delay in flights due to bad weather, local political situation could contribute to the change in the program. No claim of refund will be entertained including early return from the trip, or change in itinerary due to unavoidable situations as stated above. All extra expenses (apart from the services offered as per the program) that occur in such cases should be borne directly by the clients themselves.

Mode of payment
Upon booking a 50 % deposit must be made in advance to us and the remaining 50 % is payable upon arrival in Kathmandu.

Booking procedure
Once you are interested to join our expedition you can send us an acceptance letter so that we can go ahead with the formalities to acquire a permit.

We require the following documents at least Eight weeks before your arrival in Kathmandu for the permit.

- Photocopy of Passport of all Team Members.
- Passport Size Photographs
- Bio Data of all climbing members
- Application form filled by Expedition Leader

Tour cancellation
A cancellation charge of 25 % will be levied on any booking cancelled three weeks prior to the departure date, 50 % for cancellations two weeks prior to departure date and no refund will be made thereafter in case of cancellation. No refunds will be made if the client fails to arrive before the designated date of departure. Nor will any refund or compensations made in case of delayed arrivals.

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